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More from Joyce Stubbs
Oct. 3rd, 2021 10:16 amI think of 1972 as not so long ago. This is a mistake. Some of the general things I've noticed:
In the intro, she grumpily gives metric conversions "since Great Britain is soon to change to the metric system". Ironically, these are from metric to ounces, although the reader of this cookbook would probably be wanting to do the reverse conversion. At least this let me figure out that "a teacup" as she uses it is the same as a US measuring cup. The difference between a spoonful, a dessertspoonful, and a tablespoonful, is going to be tricker.
The cheerful assumptions about what your butcher will do for you. You can specify that you want a duck less than three months old. If your butcher doesn't know how to make up a crown roast of lamb, you can explain it to him and he'll do it, including wrapping strips of salt pork around the end of each Frenched rib to keep them from charring. Nowadays, I've always seen the ribs' char as part of the picture of the dish, although I know they used to sell, in the US, elaborate little party hats for the end of each rib in a crown roast. And your butcher will know whether he is selling Southdown or Welsh lamb.
"Dill. The dried seeds and fresh leaves are widely used on the continent, but it is mainly known in England for its pharaceutical use in dill water for settling babies' stomachs. The feathery leaves may be used instead of fennel, the flavour of which it closely resembles. It prefers a dry soil and grows well in a sunny corner of the garden." Er. What were they flavoring cucumber pickles with?
Her mayonnaise has 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 egg yolk, 1/2 pint olive oil, 1 tbsp lemon juice/wine vinegar.
Oh, Lord. I was just doing a quick google to see what the real proportions should be and came on this gem: "Neutral Flavored Oil — By neutral flavored oil, I mean use an oil that is light in flavor. Quite a bit of oil is added to make mayonnaise, so it’s important to like the flavor of the oil you use.
For a clean tasting mayonnaise use something like grape seed, safflower, avocado or canola oil. Since posting the recipe, quite a few readers have asked about olive oil in mayonnaise.
You can use olive oil, but it can be a little overpowering so I prefer to use a brand that’s light and fruity. I think robust or spicy olive oils would be too much. You might also consider only replacing half of the oil called for in the recipe with olive oil and use something more neutral for the rest."
"Clean tasting mayonnaise" indeed.
"Parsley sauce" looks incredibly dull. Make a rich white sauce; to 1 pint of the sauce add three tablespoons of chopped parsley and some butter. Serve.
As late as 1972 she has the horror of onions and garlic tasting too strong. Her tomato sauce recipe calls for two heaped tablespoons of mincedgarlic onion to two pounds of tomatoes, and cautions you to "put the grated onions into a heavy saucepan, barely cover them with water, and let them simmer for five minutes, by which time the water should nearly have disappeared. This takes the strong odour out of the onions but is not necessary if Spanish onions are used." The recipe is seasoned with 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig of basil, and 1 stick of cinnamon.
She has a recipe for "Batter pudding" that's what my family called "Eggs David Eyre" from the New York Times Cookbook, and what other people call "Dutch Babies".
In the intro, she grumpily gives metric conversions "since Great Britain is soon to change to the metric system". Ironically, these are from metric to ounces, although the reader of this cookbook would probably be wanting to do the reverse conversion. At least this let me figure out that "a teacup" as she uses it is the same as a US measuring cup. The difference between a spoonful, a dessertspoonful, and a tablespoonful, is going to be tricker.
The cheerful assumptions about what your butcher will do for you. You can specify that you want a duck less than three months old. If your butcher doesn't know how to make up a crown roast of lamb, you can explain it to him and he'll do it, including wrapping strips of salt pork around the end of each Frenched rib to keep them from charring. Nowadays, I've always seen the ribs' char as part of the picture of the dish, although I know they used to sell, in the US, elaborate little party hats for the end of each rib in a crown roast. And your butcher will know whether he is selling Southdown or Welsh lamb.
"Dill. The dried seeds and fresh leaves are widely used on the continent, but it is mainly known in England for its pharaceutical use in dill water for settling babies' stomachs. The feathery leaves may be used instead of fennel, the flavour of which it closely resembles. It prefers a dry soil and grows well in a sunny corner of the garden." Er. What were they flavoring cucumber pickles with?
Her mayonnaise has 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 egg yolk, 1/2 pint olive oil, 1 tbsp lemon juice/wine vinegar.
Oh, Lord. I was just doing a quick google to see what the real proportions should be and came on this gem: "Neutral Flavored Oil — By neutral flavored oil, I mean use an oil that is light in flavor. Quite a bit of oil is added to make mayonnaise, so it’s important to like the flavor of the oil you use.
For a clean tasting mayonnaise use something like grape seed, safflower, avocado or canola oil. Since posting the recipe, quite a few readers have asked about olive oil in mayonnaise.
You can use olive oil, but it can be a little overpowering so I prefer to use a brand that’s light and fruity. I think robust or spicy olive oils would be too much. You might also consider only replacing half of the oil called for in the recipe with olive oil and use something more neutral for the rest."
"Clean tasting mayonnaise" indeed.
"Parsley sauce" looks incredibly dull. Make a rich white sauce; to 1 pint of the sauce add three tablespoons of chopped parsley and some butter. Serve.
As late as 1972 she has the horror of onions and garlic tasting too strong. Her tomato sauce recipe calls for two heaped tablespoons of minced
She has a recipe for "Batter pudding" that's what my family called "Eggs David Eyre" from the New York Times Cookbook, and what other people call "Dutch Babies".
Brandy Cream
Simple but expensive to make this is a real party piece.
4 tablespoons icing sugar, juice of 1 large lemon, 4 tablespoons brandy, 2 pints fresh thick cream.
Strain the lemon juice over the sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the brandy and stir in the cream. Whisk until stiff but not too stiff and serve cold in a glass dish or individual jelly glasses.
