( adapted from
The Heritage of Southern Cooking, by Camille Glenn)
I bought this book two years after it came out, when we lived in Massachusetts. I can tell that because the one class of book we write in is cookbooks. If a recipe is unusually good (or unusually bad) we put the date and any modifications we made, so that we can remember. This page is covered in annotations. The original recipe was very rich: 2 eggs, an egg yolk, and 8 T butter to 5-ish cups of flour.
10/ 88 "Lovely! Did not glaze; omitted 1 egg yolk and used peel of 1 Valencia and 1/2 lemon
11/ 88 (my husband's handwriting) reduced 2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk [to a mere 5.5 cups of flour!] to a single egg, added more lemon juice, and chopped the peel coarsely.
(undated, my husband's handwriting) WATCH FOR BURNED BOTTOMS
1/90 (husband) 1/2 c. lemon j. 1 egg 6T butter no orange
5/93 (husband) 1 c soy milk, 1/3 c OJ 1/2 tsp orange oil, 6TB clarified butter, 2 eggs, splash Grand Marnier (I was nursing a baby who couldn't have dairy)
Xmas 2007 1/2 c meyer lemon, satsuma, tsp tang oil, 1 egg (the Meyer lemon I'd planted on moving to California in 2002 was fruiting)
Soon to be added: 11/2015 use 1/3 bread flour.
Here they are, the way I make them this year. I did forget an annotation and used 1/4 cup juice instead of 1/2 cup.
2 packages (5 tsp) dry yeast
1/4 cup lukewarm water
1 cup milk (we use 1% or skim)
6 T butter, cut in bits
1/2 c granulated sugar
1/2 cup citrus juice (orange, lemon, tangerine, whatever's easiest)
Lots of grated fresh peel; the recipe calls for 1 1/2 T grated orange and 1 tsp grated lemon, but in practice I grate everything I juiced, plus some more.
1 tsp citrus peel oil (not extract). In the U.S. you can get orange, lemon, and lime from Boyajian. I managed to track down and special-order their tangerine, which I is by far the yummiest. You can also find food-grade organic citrus oils at aromatherapy websites.
1 egg
1 1/2 tsp (ish) granulated salt
5 1/2 cups (very ish) all-purpose flour; substitute 2 cups of bread flour for 2 cups of all-purpose if you have it.
- Proof yeast in water.
- Heat milk in microwave until warm enough to melt butter.
- Combine milk, butter, sugar, orange juice, peels, citrus oil; stir until butter is mostly melted.
- Add egg and yeast and beat thoroughly.
- Add salt, then beat in 4 cups of flour, a cup at a time, until the dough is workable. Don't overknead at this stage; it is important to finish by hand so you can judge the dough.
- Haul it out onto a floured table or marble and knead until it is elastic but still soft. Add as little flour while kneading as you can manage; you should wind up with a soft, elastic, slightly sticky dough.
- Put into a greased bowl, cover, and rise until double.
- (You can chill overnight here if you want.)
- Punch down dough, knead until it feels like a soft bread dough. You know you're there if bubbles start breaking on the surface of the bread.
- Divide dough in half.
- Roll each half into a rectangle 1/2(ish) inch thick and 6 inches (ish) tall.
- Slice each rectangle into strips 6 inches long and one inch wide.
- Tie each strip into a knot, gently poking the free end through. Some of your knots will have both ends visible. Some will have one end poking out. Some will look disturbingly anatomical.
- Put the knots 1 1/2 inches apart on Silpats or parchment paper. Cover.
- Preheat oven to 350.
- Let rise until light and springy; this is a very light roll, and can as much as triple in size depending on the kitchen temperature, your flour, and fate.
- Brush with half-and-half cream, or heavy cream, or milk, or egg white, whichever you like to put on rolls. For years I never glazed them at all; right now I like the color and satin shine that half-and-half give.
- Bake on the middle shelf of the oven; if you can't fit two sheets on the middle shelf, swap the top sheet and the bottom sheet halfway through. As my husband warned, WATCH FOR BURNED BOTTOMS.
- Check after ten minutes. In my oven, they're done between 12-15 minutes, but your oven will be different. Take out when a pale brown; if you overbake these, they're still good, but not as tender as they would otherwise have been. Cool on racks.
The original recipe calls for frosting with a mixture of 1 cup confectioner's sugar, 2 tsp grated orange peel, and 1/2 cup fresh orange juice. I like rolls to have only a hint of sweetness, so I never frost them.
The recipe makes roughly two dozen. If you want to keep them for more than a day, freeze them, as they lose moisture fast. Then take frozen roll, wrap in a paper towel, and microwave for 5-10 seconds.